The Repair Basics
- Safety: Safety glasses, gloves, ear plugs and a dust mask.
- Tools: A scissors jack, breaker bar, 21,17, and 14mm 1/2" drive sockets and a ratchet, a hammer, large screwdriver or chisel, .
- Parts and materials: Two front caliper pins and boots, caliper grease, sandpaper, lacquer thinner. A penitrent such as PB Blaster.
- Cost of materials: Pins, $16.87, boot kit, $12.65
- Shop labor cost for the job: $100 on average.
- Home mechanic estimated time: 2-3 hours
1) Loosen the front lug nuts with a 21mm socket and a breaker bar.
2) Block the back wheels
3) Jack up front with a scissors jack. This vehicle sits so low to the ground, I couldn't get my floor jack under it. I used a scissors jack positioned at center of the cross-member, which is 25” from the inside of each tire. Place jack stands left and right.
4) With 14mm socket remove the caliper mounting bolts, not the pad bracket bolts.
5) Separate the caliper from the pad bracket. Hang it or rest it on the above.
6) Examine the pads. They are worn evenly.
7) Examine the rotors. They are acceptably smooth and even.
8) Examine the rotor pins (mounted in the pad bracket). The lower one is seized. I worked it out with back and forth with a 17mm socket and ratchet. Then I was able to get it out by clamping vice grip pliers on it and turning and pounding outward on the pliers at the same time. This was the right side . The left is seized too, but even worse and even a breaker bar and hard blows with a hammer would not dislodge it. I then turned to soaking it with PB blaster. This one is moving now, but has a ways to go and has not moved outward with the hammer and pliers.
I got the left one out but it was a battle royal. I used large flat blade screwdrivers as a wedge to drive the pin out a bit. I cut the boot out to allow some view and access. I used a ¾ inch chisel to drive it apart further. Sprayed some blaster and turned it back and forth with a rachet. When I got the gap a bit wider I was able to clamp down a large vice grip pliers and then hammer it outward. After numerous hard blows the pin began to move. A few more blows while twisting it and it came out
9) Remove the pads and then the pad bracket with a 17mm socket and ½” ratchet. Now clean out the bore where the pin was seized. First use a round file , then some 100 grit sandpaper wrapped around a pencil. Let it soak in solvent and then clean up good with a piece of rag. More sanding, more solvent. When satisfied put caliper grease on a long cotton swab and coat the bore.
10) Seat the new caliper boot with a 20mm socket and a few taps with a hammer. Coat the new pin with caliper grease and slide it into the bore
11) Mount the pad bracket with the 17mm bolt and torque to 39 ft lbs.
12) Mount the brake pad.
13) Mount the caliper on the bracket and torque the 14mm bolts to 29 ft lbs. I had to hold the pin with a vice grip pliers to keep it from turning.
14) Remount the wheel and torque to 100 ftlbs.
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